The Chinese Wall - An Excursion with Obstacles

The Great Wall, one of the most fascinating monuments of mankind and we were only two bus rides away. Our first problem arose even before we left: we needed to find a functioning ATM. Chinese ATMs are a little moody, just because they say Visa on them they not necessarily give you money using a Visa card. After trying five ATMs and almost an hour later we were finally in possession of some cash. (At least ICBC is reliable...) In comparison finding the bus to Miyun was a piece of cake. There we got off at the bus parking where the surrounding didn't look very trustworthy and were immediately besieged by a pushy cab driver who wanted to take us to Gubeikou, of course at a ridiculously high price. Even though we made it very clear that we weren't interested he followed us to the bus stop and kept saying that there were no more buses going today. After we verified that we were at the right stop - it took about 10 minutes to find the Chinese character for Gubeikou (古北口) on the plan - we decided to wait, even though we weren't really sure if we hadn't missed the last bus. The cab driver, who was still waiting, started to make us nervous but the long awaited bus arrived five minutes later and we waved cheerfully goodbye to the driver.

We got out in front of a tunnel as the guide book had suggested and stood at the entrance of an abandoned tourist village. By that time it was 5 pm and dark, as China thinks it is convenient to have only one time zone. We were lucky and didn't need to pay the entrance fee because even the cash desk was deserted. Everything else seemed to be deserted as well. So we had to deal with problem number two: finding accommodation. We walked along the road to the end of town but everything seemed closed down. Not sure what to do now we turned around. I have to confess that I was very glad that Arthur and Kirstie were with me, all alone it would have been pretty scary. On the way back we saw some light through the crack of a door and decided to knock. A little intimidated we entered and in fact stood in a small guesthouse. I'm still wondering how we were supposed to tell this from the outside. Anyway, we were given a room, hot food and beer (!) for a reasonable price. 

Well fed and with a bed for the night we could concentrate again on the Great Wall. We dismissed our original plan to camp on it due to the cold weather (already hat snowed) and lack of the equipment necessary (a warm enough sleeping bag). Instead we wanted to take a short night stroll on it. Luckily it was already dark since 5 pm and wrapped in thick layers we started.

We had planned a "quick" hike up to the wall and according to the Lonely Planet the way shouldn't have been far. But in the dark we could not make sense of the direction and followed some signs. They led us to an entry at a different section of the wall which was much further away than we thought. As we didn't see any alternatives we continued on the dark and poorly lit path. At a junction we were greeted by a loud chatter that was made by some geese on a small farm by the side of the road. Soon all the dogs in the area had joined them and the whole neighborhood was informed about our arrival. Just a little later we passed the official entrance of the wall. Despite everything all was quiet and dark and we sneaked past the hut because we didn't want to be sent back so close to our goal, or worse pay admission!

Guided by the light of the moon we accomplished the short and steep climb up to one of the watchtowers. Then we were on top of the Great Wall! Alone! In the middle of the night! A huge grin spread across my face, I just couldn't believe where I was just standing... 

We celebrated the success of our little "operation" with some plum liqueur on the roof of the watchtower. (We could climb up there on a half collapsed staircase.) As it was not as cold as we had expected - we had freed ourselves of some of our layers - we regretted not bringing the tent a little. After all, we were able to admire the starry sky and the wall (and take blurry pictures) without freezing. It took some time to say goodbye to this special place and make our way back to the guesthouse. The next morning we wanted to be back at sunrise this time at the right place to start our hike.

After a night without heating, which was probably as cold as it would have been in the tent, we set out when it was still dark. This time we went the other way and after a few minutes we found the gate where our hike should start. We finished the climb up just in time for the sunrise and got our first impression of the incredible size of the construction. (In the dark it was not so easy to see.) The wall stretched until the horizon and with our eyes we could follow it into the far distance with sometimes more, sometimes less ruined watchtowers at regular intervals. This defensive bulwark, built and rebuilt over centuries covers over 21.000 km in total. The first part of our hike was on an unrestored section of the wall that I thought was more authentic and interesting. During the entire time we did not meet or hear anyone else - quite rare for China - and enjoyed to have it all to ourselves.

When we arrived at the watchtower to which our nightly walk had taken us we didn't go back to the village but followed the wall towards the east. To avoid a military area we had to walk a little away from the wall until we reached the restored part. The Chinese understand how to rebuild their ancient sites and how to gloss them a little over so they feel a lot more modern than they are. Nevertheless the experience wasn't less impressive though perhaps not as exciting and there were still a lot of steps that follow the ups and downs of the wall. Suddenly we heard and saw other visitors for the first time. We were happy that we had been spared before because for some reason they had the strong urge to shout every few minutes; not words, but simply a loud "Woohoooo!". This behavior put more than once a frown on our faces.

Our trip back to a time, when the constant fear of invading Mongols inspired the construction of this fascinating monument, ended on the "East Tower". Our legs were heavy from the eight hours hiking and the constant climbing steps so we looked forward to the comfortable bus ride. But before we were once again harassed by a guy who couldn't stop pointing out how reviving his overpriced hot drinks would be and so our last view of the Chinese Wall was not really as undisturbed as I had wished for...

We descended into the valley to a gas station where we wanted to take the bus. Here we had to face problem number three: getting back to Beijing. The bus always arrives full unless you reserve seats by phone. Due to a lack of information - for example the number to call - and a lack of Chinese skills to explain to the person on the other end what we actually wanted it was a rather difficult task. Fortunately a fellow tourist, we had met at the station, who spoke English and Chinese made the call for us. We arrived at the hostel very tired to pick up our things and meet with Johann, the Swedish guy, who would join us on the train to X'ian. On the way to the station we encountered yet another problem...